This finde (weekend) ISA took us students on an excursión to las Alpujarras, a mountain range about an hour outside of Granada. It was an interesting trip full of lovely and not so lovely surprises. The first not so lovely surprise (though technically they warned us to take Dramamine) was the constantly turning and snaking drive up the mountain and through the pueblos. I fortunately didn't get very sick, but I heard of many cases far far worse than just being nauseous.
Once we finally arrived at the hotel, there was an overwhelming sigh of relief, and we quickly were organized into our rooms, dropped off our things, were offered a free picnic lunch, and set off for our hikes. We were given the option of an “easier” or “más dificil (more difficult)”hike, nobody informing us till AFTERWARDS that the easier simply meant shorter. So, with an enthusiastic feeling of adventure and wanting to challenge myself, I set off on the “más dificil”. I enjoyed it for the most part, it was very pretty, my only complaint is that of hiking in a large group – you have to keep up with those in the front and thus have no time to appreciate the views because you are constantly looking at the ground making sure you don’t slip and fall off the narrow (sometime a foot in width) and rocky trails. I persevered without an incident until lunch time. I’m not saying lunch time is when things went wrong, but it is the major marking point for this hike. Lunch was very nice, a little flat area where we rested and ate for an hour, hour and a half, with a gorgeous view of the valleys and peaks of the mountain range and the 3 main pueblos that inhabit this daunting area.
After the lovely break (though I admit I would have rather broken up the rests for the rest of the way UP the mountain side later), we started our way back, with a quick tour through Bubión the middle pueblo. Things had a great start when we lost our guide (for those in the front were going so incredibly fast). To think we could have been one of those horror stories you hear about: group of 25 exchange students disappear in the Alpujarras. Luckily, things don’t normally happen in that magnitude and we were soon reunited. But then things became extremely difficult. For me at least. Not only had we been hiking for about 4 hours and were continuing on full stomachs, but the ENTIRE rest of the way was UPHILL. And STEEP. It was a never ending series of sloping ramps (reminded me of those toys with the ball that rolls down one slide to the next back and forth…) that gave only too brief respites of flat land. It got to the point where I was taking a breather every 5 minutes or so. My body was reaching the point of sheer exhaustion; I could feel the tears (my body’s response to overwork) starting to build up. I held out till the last haul, where my body (and I stress it was my body, because my mind was in fit form! I didn’t even feel any pain, though that might have been numbness now that I think about it…) broke down and I had to stop completely get a hold of those annoying screams of my body that surfaced as sobs. This only happened twice. And, luckily, I wasn’t the only one who was waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay in the back of the line. There were a few others who were having just as hard a time. But I eventually caught up with them and made it to the top. Where a welcoming DESCENT to our hotel awaited.
During that last half hour of the hike (I’m told it was a half hour, for all I know it was an eternity of penitence in Hell), it was hard to imagine someone living here climbing these slopey mountain sides every single day. But I had to remember that those who started these towns didn’t have much of a choice – they moved here to escape the persecution and exile of the Moors and Jews. Those who had nowhere else to go and didn’t want to convert to Christianity fled here. Thus the strong resemblance to many ancient Arab cities – white houses, narrow streets, the beautiful designs in the pebble-stone streets.
Finally back at the hotel, where we were reminded of the fact that Capaleira was built on a hill, including our hotel, we had to summit a very small but painful at the moment incline before we could shower and sleep. But because of our good behaviour and the kindness of the hotel owners and ISA directors, we were given free dinner and breakfast. Which were the highlight of my time there because they were….drumroll please…BUFFETS! Delicious, all-you-can-eat, plethora of desserts buffet. I was a happy camper. Ate my desserts first too (my excuse was the incredibly long line for actual food). These included a flan/custardy dessert, chocolate mousse, two types of lemon bizcochos (a dryish thin cake, similar to lemon bars) and ice cream and fruits. And a meal of pasta, chicken, french fries and croquetas.
Not to mention the amazing conversation about movies and actors that accompanied this delicious meal.
Feeling energized and refreshed, several of us headed out into the great big…well, terribly tiny (the town only had 300 inhabitants) town of Capaleira to look for some fun. We found a small bar and had a few drinks. And I’m pretty sure the waiter thought we were crazy because we passed up the free tapas. But we just could not eat another bite, dinner had been so filling.
The next day, we were able to sleep in, had a buffet breakfast, with a multitude of pastries and kiwis and various other foods. I explored around the premises for a bit finding some beautiful views, but unfortunately lacking my camera at the time (sorry!) and then we headed off to the lowest town in the area Pampaneira. Where we hung out for a much too long duration of 3 hours. We all just wanted to return home (to Granada, of course!)
And though I can’t ever imagine living somewhere so small and so touristy, and I was exhausted and missing my bed and comforts of Granada, the Alpujarra was a lovely little place to visit and a wonderful way to spend the weekend. And if you ever visit…unless you are in top physical condition and have had plenty of sleep, avoid the long hike!!
