Paris, la plus belle ville de tout le monde!
After a full day of traveling, I've finally arrived in the enchanting city of romance, Paris.
Since I couldn't visit the cemetery I went all the way across the city to see Les Galeries Lafayette near the Opéra Garnier (the setting of Phantom of the Opera). Everything was decked out in Christmas lights and decorations. There were window displays full of dolls and teddy bears doing the dances to Mamma Mia and other musicals, along with a plethora of Christmas music and small vendors lined outside the store. Inside it was gorgeous and immense. The building itself looks like an opera house from the inside but it is filled with outrageously expensive stores and cafés. And in the middle was a Christmas tree as tall as the 6 storied building was with 5 or 6 HUGE presents dangling from the ceiling. Incredible, almost too much to take in!
The traveling part went fairly smooth, with only a mix up of directions in the metro, but that is something easily resolved. And so, 11 hours after I stepped out of my apartment in Granada, a bus ride to Málaga, flight to Beauvais, hour bus ride to Paris city center, who knows how long in the metro system and I find myself in this charming little hotel/hostel with a room for four all to myself. (Both a good and a bad thing).
In my travels I've found it increasingly hard to determine which language to use to communicate with people. Do I try speaking the language of the country I'm currently in? Do I wait till they say something to anyone to see what language they speak? Do I speak Spanish, since my French skills have sadly disappeared? Or do I just give up and speak in English, since that was the language in which I was constantly replied to.
After the highly disappointing revelation of finding out, not only that I can barely speak a sentence more complicated than "Where is (place)" but, that I appear to be incomprehensible with my French accent. So with that I dropped the accent and asked the basics. Found my way to the hostel where I met a very cool Madrileno who speaks French and English. Finding out he was from Spain I immediately slipped back into what is a very comforting language for me now. Discovering how relieved I was to speak and hear Spanish again really made me realize how much I've improved these last 3 months. Surrounded by this half forgotten French language, the tiny islands of Spanish - in the metro, a stranger, the host at the hostel - made me feel right at home. My 4th home to be exact (after my actual home, the AcDec room, and barrett).
juedi:
Aujourd'hui j'ai marché pour 4 heures. This morning I walked for four hours and only covered a few streets. Paris is so huge, but so beautiful. And, contrary to popular thought, every single person (minus the cranky security guard at the pere-lachaise cemetery) was terribly nice and extremely helpful and cheerful. And in conversing with these lovely parisians and constantly asking how to get to certain streets, I finally find my french coming back to me, improving. A pair of parisians in a cafe told me I speak french well, but I'm sure they just meant they were surprised i could converse with them fairly well. Nevertheless, I appreciated the much-longed-for confirmation of my french speaking abilities. I miss french so much and just find myself constantly smiling and feeling like I belong here. I never want to leave...I am officially a Paris-phile and I know I will have a need to come back here often throughout my life, in every season, every weather, you get the picture. =)
Since I couldn't visit the cemetery I went all the way across the city to see Les Galeries Lafayette near the Opéra Garnier (the setting of Phantom of the Opera). Everything was decked out in Christmas lights and decorations. There were window displays full of dolls and teddy bears doing the dances to Mamma Mia and other musicals, along with a plethora of Christmas music and small vendors lined outside the store. Inside it was gorgeous and immense. The building itself looks like an opera house from the inside but it is filled with outrageously expensive stores and cafés. And in the middle was a Christmas tree as tall as the 6 storied building was with 5 or 6 HUGE presents dangling from the ceiling. Incredible, almost too much to take in!
By the way, have I mentioned already how much I absolutely love Paris? And how incredibly attractive everyone who lives here is? I think I might have...;)
Also, a surprise today was not being able to find a plethora of crèperies. In fact, I found only two on my adventures today. But the search at lunch was well worth it and I can still taste the peppery ham and cheese crèpe warming me up in the below freezing weather (though no snow today).
And later on my way to see some museums, I stumbled across one special exhibition displaying Roman and Greek art, with some beautiful Roman pieces and jewelry. Afterwards, I visited the Musée d'Orsay, where I found out that with my visa I can get into the museums for free because I am a temporary EU citizen!! So I explored this lovely museum for several hours, so many paintings and sculptures. I focused mostly on the paintings - by Van Gogh, Monet, Renoir, Degas and so many more. There was also an incredible miniature of one of the main buildings in Paris (I forget which).
And one must never forget that the museums themselves are works of art, such architecture and beauty. And Paris at night is gorgeous, especially near the Champs Elysées, where there was a grand roue (ferris wheel) all lit up and white and beautiful in the night surrounded by softly falling snow.
A lovely first full day in the city of love!
And later on my way to see some museums, I stumbled across one special exhibition displaying Roman and Greek art, with some beautiful Roman pieces and jewelry. Afterwards, I visited the Musée d'Orsay, where I found out that with my visa I can get into the museums for free because I am a temporary EU citizen!! So I explored this lovely museum for several hours, so many paintings and sculptures. I focused mostly on the paintings - by Van Gogh, Monet, Renoir, Degas and so many more. There was also an incredible miniature of one of the main buildings in Paris (I forget which).
And one must never forget that the museums themselves are works of art, such architecture and beauty. And Paris at night is gorgeous, especially near the Champs Elysées, where there was a grand roue (ferris wheel) all lit up and white and beautiful in the night surrounded by softly falling snow.
A lovely first full day in the city of love!
Matisse
Since my return from the Alpujarra I have had a continuously busy, or rather occupied, week. It's been fun and I'm finally understanding my friends who have a full, exhausting sounding schedule. If you don't have time to be tired, then you don't get tired, basically.
But this week has been filled with fun events too and time to contemplate and plan my next several semesters of university education.
On Tuesday I went with a small group of ISA students to a free exhibition of Matisse in the Alhambra, technically El palacio de Carlos V (Granada was the capital of spain for about a year when the king came here to get married). No biggie, famous painters are displayed in this historic fortress all the time. It's a daily occurence here in Granada. I can't say I was very familiar with Matisse before going to this exhibit, but I was extremely pleased with what I saw. I love the way he used colors in his works, the soft lines, and our amazing guide pointed out all of the inlfuences of the Alhambra, Granada and Morroco that he included in almost every one of his works.
You see, Matisse was first inspired to visit Granada and the Alhambra when he saw a few photos of the Arab palace in a museum in Germany. He traveled for months across Spain, picking up various exotic pieces of fabrics and porcelains, suffering an illness only to spend 3 days in Granada and 1 day at the Alhambra 100 years ago this month (we know this from his signature in the guest book or Libro del oro that the Alahmbra has). Aunque/though it was such a short time, he was enchanted by this city and it haunted him till the day he died. In every work there is at least one bit of Arabic design, one print of a granada (pomegranate), a piece of ceramic or fabric he collected while in the southern part of spain and in morroco. He dressed his wife and daughter up in the style of the spanish doña, with the giant hair comb and manta or large shawl. Our guide told us that Matisse was fascinated by the exotic and it was evident in his works - Southern Spain, Morroco, Asia and Africa.
The best part about this exhibition in my opinion, besides being free, was that the pieces that Matisse saw on his visit to the Alhambra and that show up in his works were on display right along with his paintings and drawings. Our guide would describe a piece of ceramic or textile that Matisse had bought that was on display, then point out how he drew or painted it into his works. There were vases and chess sets that he saw in the Alhambra, that we saw displayed that were in his obras (works). I really enjoyed the exhibit and am so happy I had the chance to see it. And I want to proudly admit that I signed my name in the guest book, just in case one day I become famous and a museum curator happens to discover I visited the Alhambra, there might be a show for me!
(we weren't allowed to take photos, but here is one of us outside the palace by the sign for the exhibition!)
La Alpujarra - Capileira, Bubion (y las Escaleras del infierno) y Pampaneira
This finde (weekend) ISA took us students on an excursión to las Alpujarras, a mountain range about an hour outside of Granada. It was an interesting trip full of lovely and not so lovely surprises. The first not so lovely surprise (though technically they warned us to take Dramamine) was the constantly turning and snaking drive up the mountain and through the pueblos. I fortunately didn't get very sick, but I heard of many cases far far worse than just being nauseous.
Once we finally arrived at the hotel, there was an overwhelming sigh of relief, and we quickly were organized into our rooms, dropped off our things, were offered a free picnic lunch, and set off for our hikes. We were given the option of an “easier” or “más dificil (more difficult)”hike, nobody informing us till AFTERWARDS that the easier simply meant shorter. So, with an enthusiastic feeling of adventure and wanting to challenge myself, I set off on the “más dificil”. I enjoyed it for the most part, it was very pretty, my only complaint is that of hiking in a large group – you have to keep up with those in the front and thus have no time to appreciate the views because you are constantly looking at the ground making sure you don’t slip and fall off the narrow (sometime a foot in width) and rocky trails. I persevered without an incident until lunch time. I’m not saying lunch time is when things went wrong, but it is the major marking point for this hike. Lunch was very nice, a little flat area where we rested and ate for an hour, hour and a half, with a gorgeous view of the valleys and peaks of the mountain range and the 3 main pueblos that inhabit this daunting area.
After the lovely break (though I admit I would have rather broken up the rests for the rest of the way UP the mountain side later), we started our way back, with a quick tour through Bubión the middle pueblo. Things had a great start when we lost our guide (for those in the front were going so incredibly fast). To think we could have been one of those horror stories you hear about: group of 25 exchange students disappear in the Alpujarras. Luckily, things don’t normally happen in that magnitude and we were soon reunited. But then things became extremely difficult. For me at least. Not only had we been hiking for about 4 hours and were continuing on full stomachs, but the ENTIRE rest of the way was UPHILL. And STEEP. It was a never ending series of sloping ramps (reminded me of those toys with the ball that rolls down one slide to the next back and forth…) that gave only too brief respites of flat land. It got to the point where I was taking a breather every 5 minutes or so. My body was reaching the point of sheer exhaustion; I could feel the tears (my body’s response to overwork) starting to build up. I held out till the last haul, where my body (and I stress it was my body, because my mind was in fit form! I didn’t even feel any pain, though that might have been numbness now that I think about it…) broke down and I had to stop completely get a hold of those annoying screams of my body that surfaced as sobs. This only happened twice. And, luckily, I wasn’t the only one who was waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay in the back of the line. There were a few others who were having just as hard a time. But I eventually caught up with them and made it to the top. Where a welcoming DESCENT to our hotel awaited.
During that last half hour of the hike (I’m told it was a half hour, for all I know it was an eternity of penitence in Hell), it was hard to imagine someone living here climbing these slopey mountain sides every single day. But I had to remember that those who started these towns didn’t have much of a choice – they moved here to escape the persecution and exile of the Moors and Jews. Those who had nowhere else to go and didn’t want to convert to Christianity fled here. Thus the strong resemblance to many ancient Arab cities – white houses, narrow streets, the beautiful designs in the pebble-stone streets.
Finally back at the hotel, where we were reminded of the fact that Capaleira was built on a hill, including our hotel, we had to summit a very small but painful at the moment incline before we could shower and sleep. But because of our good behaviour and the kindness of the hotel owners and ISA directors, we were given free dinner and breakfast. Which were the highlight of my time there because they were….drumroll please…BUFFETS! Delicious, all-you-can-eat, plethora of desserts buffet. I was a happy camper. Ate my desserts first too (my excuse was the incredibly long line for actual food). These included a flan/custardy dessert, chocolate mousse, two types of lemon bizcochos (a dryish thin cake, similar to lemon bars) and ice cream and fruits. And a meal of pasta, chicken, french fries and croquetas.
Not to mention the amazing conversation about movies and actors that accompanied this delicious meal.
Feeling energized and refreshed, several of us headed out into the great big…well, terribly tiny (the town only had 300 inhabitants) town of Capaleira to look for some fun. We found a small bar and had a few drinks. And I’m pretty sure the waiter thought we were crazy because we passed up the free tapas. But we just could not eat another bite, dinner had been so filling.
The next day, we were able to sleep in, had a buffet breakfast, with a multitude of pastries and kiwis and various other foods. I explored around the premises for a bit finding some beautiful views, but unfortunately lacking my camera at the time (sorry!) and then we headed off to the lowest town in the area Pampaneira. Where we hung out for a much too long duration of 3 hours. We all just wanted to return home (to Granada, of course!)
And though I can’t ever imagine living somewhere so small and so touristy, and I was exhausted and missing my bed and comforts of Granada, the Alpujarra was a lovely little place to visit and a wonderful way to spend the weekend. And if you ever visit…unless you are in top physical condition and have had plenty of sleep, avoid the long hike!!
Día 52
Ultimamente, ha estado lloviendo y hacía frio, pero ha estado muy bonito en Granada. He visitado algunas muestras de arte, compré dos libros de la fería de libros aquí en la plaza de la fuente de las batallas y asistiendo una clase de salsa. Todavía no puedo decir que he estado muy ocupada, solo poca floja y por eso no he escrito mucho. Lo siento a todos.
Lately it has been raining and chilly here, but very pretty in Granada. I've been to several art exhibitions, bought two books at a book fair, and have been taking a salsa class. Still, I can't say I've been terribly busy, only a bit lazy and because of that I haven't written much. Sorry!
I will make up for it by writing a thorough post right now, and updating at least weekly from now on.
I want to say that I think every place is so much prettier under an overcast sky. Everything feels so calm and tranquil, every happy moment is made better under a gray sky because it's like a ray of sunshine through the clouds, and the worse moments don't feel as bad because it's such a neutral day. That's how I take rainy cloudy days, at least. And during and after the rain one can sense the renewal the water has brought, the replenished life force and cleaning of the world. Not to mention I can finally wear my trench coat and use my umbrella when the water pours from the sky. But I have to say, that the best place to be when it rains and especially AFTER it rains is good ol' T-town. I can think of no better scent than that of the wet desert - so refreshed, clean, vibrant, energizing, happy and comforting! It's the smell of home for me and I don't think it can ever be replicated. It's what I miss the most about my first home. I could also go for a good lightening and thunder storm during monsoon season. I miss the good old times when the washes actually were filled to the top by the rain!
I suppose this post will be more of a reflective one, I'll be sure to write a few more after this about specific memorable events.
Another thing about Granada, and cities in general, is the obvious lack of wildlife. I am so grateful I grew up in Tucson and in the deserty area where my house is. It was the perfect mix between no-man's land and a city. I love being in the city, though I have yet to live in a major city, the business and bustling charge me up and make me want to do things! I love having the opportunity to walk anywhere and within 15 minutes have a hundred things to do and places to go. All within 15 minutes of where I'm living right now in the center of Granada I can: go to 3 different movie theaters, at least 5 discotecas, a variety of salsa clubs, several centros comerciales or malls, and in all the extra space are pubs, cafés and tapas bars. Everything I could need or want for a good time is literally at my fingertips. But there aren't beautiful vistas of mountains or sunsets on the horizon because you can't see the horizon for the buildings surrounding you, all the rabbits, prairie dogs, lizards, and incredibly stupid suicidal birds have been replaced by dogs (stray and owned) and stray cats everywhere and the sounds and poop of birds, but not a bird to be seen because they hide in the trees.
Since living away from Tucson I have come to appreciate it so much more. It is such a magical unique place. And seeing such amazing sites abroad, such as the Alhambra, and hearing the history and legends about this beautiful cross-cultural city make me wonder what treasures I've overlooked about my native town. Talking about where I live makes me proud and boast of the wonderfully crazy bipolar weather we have and the plants and mountains that I love so much. Can't say I miss over 100 degree weather all that much, nor do I think I ever will. I do miss the mild winters and the rains, though. And free water and knowing the prices of food and drinks before you order them - Do Not take these little things for granted. Also, always stock up on gooey freshly baked cookies and tall multilayer cakes smothered in frosting and brownies before traveling abroad. And of course peanut butter. I don't think that these sweets are common place anywhere but the US, and the rest of the world has opted to ignore the deliciousness that is creamy (or chunky) peanut butter. That being said, I absolutely love all the pastries I've tried and bizcochos (flat cakes) and the custard that was made for Día de los Santos. And I do miss a good American-style breakfast.
That is about all I have to tell you about my state of mind here over half way through my first semester living in Spain. It wasn't quite the drastic immersion I hoped for, but I do enjoy living here and am making the most of experiencing the way of life (though I have yet to go to a club at 3am and party till it closes in the morning around 7, as is the way of partying here in España).
Hope everyone of you who reads this gets a chance to live somewhere outside of the US and to experience something different!
Lately it has been raining and chilly here, but very pretty in Granada. I've been to several art exhibitions, bought two books at a book fair, and have been taking a salsa class. Still, I can't say I've been terribly busy, only a bit lazy and because of that I haven't written much. Sorry!
I will make up for it by writing a thorough post right now, and updating at least weekly from now on.
I want to say that I think every place is so much prettier under an overcast sky. Everything feels so calm and tranquil, every happy moment is made better under a gray sky because it's like a ray of sunshine through the clouds, and the worse moments don't feel as bad because it's such a neutral day. That's how I take rainy cloudy days, at least. And during and after the rain one can sense the renewal the water has brought, the replenished life force and cleaning of the world. Not to mention I can finally wear my trench coat and use my umbrella when the water pours from the sky. But I have to say, that the best place to be when it rains and especially AFTER it rains is good ol' T-town. I can think of no better scent than that of the wet desert - so refreshed, clean, vibrant, energizing, happy and comforting! It's the smell of home for me and I don't think it can ever be replicated. It's what I miss the most about my first home. I could also go for a good lightening and thunder storm during monsoon season. I miss the good old times when the washes actually were filled to the top by the rain!
I suppose this post will be more of a reflective one, I'll be sure to write a few more after this about specific memorable events.
Another thing about Granada, and cities in general, is the obvious lack of wildlife. I am so grateful I grew up in Tucson and in the deserty area where my house is. It was the perfect mix between no-man's land and a city. I love being in the city, though I have yet to live in a major city, the business and bustling charge me up and make me want to do things! I love having the opportunity to walk anywhere and within 15 minutes have a hundred things to do and places to go. All within 15 minutes of where I'm living right now in the center of Granada I can: go to 3 different movie theaters, at least 5 discotecas, a variety of salsa clubs, several centros comerciales or malls, and in all the extra space are pubs, cafés and tapas bars. Everything I could need or want for a good time is literally at my fingertips. But there aren't beautiful vistas of mountains or sunsets on the horizon because you can't see the horizon for the buildings surrounding you, all the rabbits, prairie dogs, lizards, and incredibly stupid suicidal birds have been replaced by dogs (stray and owned) and stray cats everywhere and the sounds and poop of birds, but not a bird to be seen because they hide in the trees.
Since living away from Tucson I have come to appreciate it so much more. It is such a magical unique place. And seeing such amazing sites abroad, such as the Alhambra, and hearing the history and legends about this beautiful cross-cultural city make me wonder what treasures I've overlooked about my native town. Talking about where I live makes me proud and boast of the wonderfully crazy bipolar weather we have and the plants and mountains that I love so much. Can't say I miss over 100 degree weather all that much, nor do I think I ever will. I do miss the mild winters and the rains, though. And free water and knowing the prices of food and drinks before you order them - Do Not take these little things for granted. Also, always stock up on gooey freshly baked cookies and tall multilayer cakes smothered in frosting and brownies before traveling abroad. And of course peanut butter. I don't think that these sweets are common place anywhere but the US, and the rest of the world has opted to ignore the deliciousness that is creamy (or chunky) peanut butter. That being said, I absolutely love all the pastries I've tried and bizcochos (flat cakes) and the custard that was made for Día de los Santos. And I do miss a good American-style breakfast.
That is about all I have to tell you about my state of mind here over half way through my first semester living in Spain. It wasn't quite the drastic immersion I hoped for, but I do enjoy living here and am making the most of experiencing the way of life (though I have yet to go to a club at 3am and party till it closes in the morning around 7, as is the way of partying here in España).
Hope everyone of you who reads this gets a chance to live somewhere outside of the US and to experience something different!
Diá 37 (Las frutas!)
Today I feel like talking about the delicious fruits I've discovered here in España. So many wonderful different kinds! And most are of such higher taste and texture here that I'm eating fruits I've never liked before.
For example, the peras, pears, are absolutely delicious. Tiny, sweet, green pears. Firm and juicey. Take a bite and the sticky liquid begins to drip down your chin.
Then we have the acerolas. Which are about cherry-size and taste like apples.
Then we have the acerolas. Which are about cherry-size and taste like apples.
Los modroños are very different and, though they don't have a strong flavor, are rather good. (Not to mention they look very cool and the texture is very different.) There is a small park, Carmen de los Mártires, where you can pick these fruits off the trees and pop them in your mouth. (Which is what I did. There will be another post about this magical park in the future.)
Then there are my two favorite fruits here so far:
El melón (which is like honeydew, except onethousand times better)
and las ciruelas (which are white plums) and make a delicious mermelada
The only fruit I have a complaint about is the manzana, the good old fashioned apple. They just aren't as sweet as the ones in the U.S. or France (the two other countries I've eaten apples from). But it isn't too bad since I have all of these other lovely options!
and Málaga
there is someone under all that costume. he moved. it was awesome
someone preparing to be a ninja angel!
do you see the faces?
some german guy telling us the history of the plaza we were in. spanish with a german accent is pretty legit. not to mention his costume.
a miniture of old málaga
view of the city
a mini replica of the alhambra
graffiti...it's that cool here
beach (it's not a sand sculpture, it's actually cement)
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