Viernes, el 20 de mayo

As I try to motivate myself to be productive this last week here in Spain, both with school work and finishing up the last parts of Morocco and Barcelona, I’ve been procrastinating by going out with friends for tapas and dancing (much more often than I should the week of finals, but eh, this is Spain.) Just last night several of the amazing girls I met in Morocco and I decided to try the always-talked-about Arab Baths. For only 23 euros (yay student discount) we were able to make a reservation for Friday evening, the time? Midnight. I really love Spain’s horario, schedule. After having had a few tapas and tintos de verano to fill us up we headed over to Plaza Nueva to visit the Al-Hammam Baños Árabes. The lobby is very tiny and has a very tall staircase that leads to the front desk. It was actually extremely crowded at 11:15 when we arrived to check in, with one family, one other group of friends and another group of American students studying abroad.

But once out of the lobby and into the vestuarios or changing rooms, everything started to lighten up and take on a relaxed atmosphere. Even though we could have each had our own digitized and personal code locker, we decided to stuff everything in one for time saving purposes. And it was a tight squeeze, but we were able to shove all 5 purses, pairs of shoes and boots, clothing and 2 pairs of glasses into the L shaped cubby with only a little bit of elbow grease.

In our lovely bathing suits (and me mostly blind from having taken off my glasses) headed into the next chamber, or rather chambers, from the changing rooms we walked into the mint tea area (with fancy little plastic cups that resembled laundry detergent scoopers), and then followed the attendant through the cold water room, the hot water room and in front of the tepid water room. She then directed us to shower before getting into the baths and said we were allowed to start cycling through the baths and the steam room until our turn for massages was called.

So we confusedly rinse off in the showers, I attempted to use a little soap here and there, but wasn’t quite sure the point of it all. And then we took our towels, hung them on one of the many hooks, and hopped into the tepid water bath. This was the largest and deepest of the baths, but that isn’t saying much. It was about the size of a normal squared pool, and a little less than average depth (around 4 feet) but was very roomy and we were able to swim and float a bit in this pool. Once we were bored with that room, we walked over to the middle room full of hot water – more or less a hot tub, but very very shallow, only deep enough to cover your entire body laying flat down. This was my favorite bath, so very relaxing and with less people in it than the tepid water bath (which, as the night went on, became VERY popular with the parejas, or couples.) I probably could have stayed there for the entire time, but I left when the rest of my group decided to change. Here is the most interesting bit of the system though: the cold bath. This water is ICY cold, very shallow – only comes up to the knees – but VERY important to the cycling of water. The cold bath, if you can manage to get in at all, helps with circulation and refreshes the body. I found it was easier to cool off first on one of the stone benches in the same room, then try to get as much of me as possible wet in the icy liquid. It stung every time I chilled off, but afterwards it felt so wonderful!

We went through this process several times, my friends and I, and I even got to try the steam room once before my massage was called up. But I can’t say I enjoyed the steam room at all. Some of the other girls had been to a sauna before and said this one was one of the thickest they’ve been in. But from the moment we opened the doors I felt the air thicken up, inside was a visible atmosphere of scented steam, it was hard to breathe and eventually the minty vapor began to sting my eyes. I wasn’t able to stay long enough to decide whether I enjoyed it or not, but I think I’d give it another attempt. If the steam was thinner.

Finally, about half an hour or 45 minutes after we were let in, my turn was called for massages. We were instructed to take another shower before lying down on the table, which this time I understood, I wouldn’t want to touch someone who hadn’t washed first!

After walking into the massage chamber I sort of ambled through to the masseuse farthest back, who was really nice and thought I was Spanish. =) Always makes my life. She then had me choose scented oil, and I picked rose, I laid down and she asked where I wanted the massage – back, legs, or both. I chose both, not sure how the whole thing would go, but I picked right in the end. She quickly worked out all the odd kinks I happened to have in my calves, and then started quickly feeling out and loosening all the knots in my shoulder blades. Her skilled hands with the lovely body oil felt like magic as the flitted over my muscles relaxing all the tenseness from my neck and back. Later, after everyone had finished their massages, I happened to pick one of the best masseuses of the lot.

After an hour and a half of cycling and the massage the attendant came around ringing a triangle like instrument calling us all out of the chambers. Thankfully we were in the tepid water bath when this happened – the perfect ending, in my opinion. We filed out, dried off, changed, blew dry our hair with their hair dryers, used their lotion pumps, and walked into the refreshingly cool night air.

It was such a lovely experience, so very revitalizing and relaxing, like a good yoga session. I can’t wait to try the different types of Spas in the States and the Arab baths that are throughout the rest of Europe. It will definitely be on my to-do list for every country I go to (assuming the service is affordable!) And I highly recommend it to anyone who has the opportunity to go to an Arab Bath. It is worth every cent!

(And sorry no pics of this one! Cameras not allowed once you are past the lobby area.)

Barcelona - Noche del día 2

Here comes the best part of Rachel’s and my adventure in Barcelona. Somehow we thought it would be a brilliant idea to skip the hostel for our second night (Because we had a 6am flight to Sevilla) partying it up till 2 then heading over to the airport for the last couple hours. What we didn’t plan on was the fact that we still hadn’t completely recovered from the flight TO Barcelona and that we would be exhausted after our adventuring around the city.

So we very exhausted girls wandered the streets trying to stay awake, in a good and stable mood, and picking up food from here and there. After a dinner of eggs, ham and spinach drenched in garlic infused olive oil, we stumbled back to our hostel where they kindly let us nap on the lounge room couch for a couple hours before we headed to catch the bus to the airport. We basically passed out, regained our composures then set off for the “Nitebus” to the airport.

It turned out a great thing that we left with spare time because we ended up getting turned around somehow, though getting to the bus stop was really a straight shot (gotta love Spain’s tilting curving not parallel streets). We finally reoriented ourselves with the help of a very nice waiter at a restaurant that was closing up. He not only gave us directions, but wanted us to promise him that we were having fun and would keep enjoying our adventure here in Spain. Such a nice man. With that we were off, found the bus stop, got on the bus, slept through till the airport (well, mostly – buses in Spain go very scarily fast around corners… I was jolted awake more than once in fear of my life.) Found a comfy spot in the airport amongst security and other travelers/homeless people and entertained ourselves till it was time to board the plane!

Barcelona - Día 2

We were forced to start our morning early in order to enjoy the complimentary breakfast provided by the hostel – and it was really good too: cereals, bananas, oranges, apples, teas, cocoas, coffees, juices, crackers, jams, honey…the works! We stuffed ourselves silly and took a bit extra to last us for the day.

We had seen that there was a free walking tour for later that afternoon, so in order to save energy and waste time, we started to explore the hostel. The place was REALLY neat. Very brightly colored, lots of neat decorations, themed rooms, and the rooftop game lounge area was very nice. That is where we ended up chilling for an hour or so, just chatting away and enjoying the nice weather. While we were sitting on the plastic chairs we also ran into one of the roomers who was working for a place to stay. He was doing something with the plants, at first we thought watering them or moving them…but after 20 minutes we just weren’t sure. He’d bring some plants up from downstairs and others down the elevator from the top…but he didn’t water them all…and there didn’t seem to be any system to the madness. There were a few other (all men…hmm) workers painting walls and cleaning dishes.





Finally the hour came to go meet our walking tour, and it was such a blast. We picked the Gaudí walking tour (of course, we both being mesmerized by his works) and the best tour guide. He was German, and of course, spoke both English and Spanish as well as a few other languages (because EVERY German knows how to speak at least 3 languages fluently. It really isn’t fair). To start off our tour we got to watch an accident happen at one of the cafés/apartment buildings in the plaza we met at – something happened inside the room at the top floor of the building that caused an object to hit the glass and break it, shattering it outside onto the unsuspecting diners below. They all took it fairly calmly though. One woman got hit on the head with a shard and was very calmly (or maybe she was in shock) trying to stop the bleeding, a few other men were trying to help her out, and I think there were a few more  very slight scratches on some others. I assume they eventually took the woman to the hospital or nearest doctor to get looked at, but everyone just stayed there,  nobody really moved from their spots if they weren’t disturbed in the first place by the glass. About 5 minutes later some policemen stroll on up to the place and then people start getting interested (though throughout this entire time the tourists were taking pictures of the incident…including myself), though alas we didn’t stay long enough to find out what happened.








Back to the tour, our guide told us awesomely amped up stories about Gaudí’s life and inspirations for his structures and buildings, showing us his one and only civic structure – a lamp post – made for the city, the most famous buildings that he designed and each one took at least 10 years to complete because he always had the luxury of patron’s money and time, so his perfectionism (if it is possible to have OCD for that type of architecture, he had it) had full reign.


Several of his buildings actually inspired one of the most iconic movie series in the entire culture of the United States and most of the world – Star Wars. George Lucas saw the future Storm Troopers and the costume for Darth Vader in the swirling sculptures that Gaudí created. And you really can see the helmets on top of this ocean inspired building:





And Darth Vader in the side of the Sagrada Familia!



My favorite Gaudí building, though, is the one dedicated to St George the dragon slayer. The entire building reminds one of a dragon and it’s just beautiful in the detailed pocks and skull face balconies in the façade and the colors that accent the building.








After the amazing tour, we headed over to the beach barrio to get some lunch, sun and fresh sea air. On our way down to the beach front we enjoyed the bright sun and all the different looks of Barcelonan beach wear, scouting out the prices and meal choices for lunch afterwards. The beach area was a great place to people watch too – all ages and genders and styles came through, on skates, bikes, skateboards running and strolling about. Finally we got hungry enough and searched out a delicious seafood pizza and calamaras a la romana with cafés con leche and it was delicious. No pictures because we were so hungry!



 Finally we got hungry enough and searched out a delicious seafood pizza and calamaras a la romana with cafés con leche and it was delicious. No pictures because we were so hungry!

The remains of our lunch (seafood pizza (salmon, shrimp and tuna pizza and a plate of calamaris with lemon wedges


This gave us the rest of the afternoon to get a smoothie – pineapple, orange, and something delicious – wander around the cathedral checking out the odd spectacle that was occuring. Some mini festival dance with devils, sport team, traditional peasant hoop dancing, and a human pyramid group. They were mostly ambling about in groups…not really doing much…but it was entertaining and interesting.




Barça día 1 - addendum! Parc Guël

 Can’t believe I forgot to mention!

To whittle away the afternoon we took a bus up to the infamous residential neighborhood-turned-park that Gaudí designed – Parc Guël. Gaudí had planned it to be an artsy living community, everything with the unique swirling amorphous Gaudí style, but it never quite caught on. And I’m not entirely sure why. It was an amazing and beautiful park, Rachel and I both felt as if we had walked inside a movie – a combination between Jurassic Park (without the dinosaurs) and some futuristic world. And every structure had a very natural feel to it. The man made pillars and tunnels looked exactly as if they had happened naturally, it is easy to confuse the natural and manmade elements in the pictures!







We wandered around for hours in this park – taking in all the shapes, swirls and mind-bending angles that he put walls and tunnels at. This park was also so full of life, with a reggae band playing in the center square, people picnicking, and various small pairs of musicians tucked away in the caves and tunnels. We found a shady spot after making the rounds, and took everything in. I swear I could live there forever and never get tired of it.










As the music of steel drums and birds twittering showered over us, we fancied turning into hoboes and learning how to survive in this beautiful paradise. We’d climb all over the towers and find all the secret nooks and crannies and statues that Gaudí left behind. In the daytime we’d dance and play drums to get some money and charm all the young men into buying us dinner and drinks at night. It was such a difficult thing to stand up and tear ourselves away from the enchanting place. If I ever go back to Barcelona, I will spend one entire day in the park, though I might not have the willpower to leave it again!



Día de la cruz (el 3 de mayo)

Yesterday was a half day for almost everyone is Granada, for it was a holiday celebrating the Day of the crosses, a mix of the Spanish version of May Day and the historic day when one of the Byzantine Empresses commenced an epic search for the cross on which Jesus died.

To celebrate this day you walk around the city finding all the displays that feature one giant red cross, local Granada pottery, a green apple called a Pero with a pair of tijeras or scissors stuck in it, and some other unique features. (And popular tradition says that at each cross you take a glass of wine at the nearest bar. Up till a few years ago this meant that the entire city of Granada and all of the tourists, including those from throughout Spain, turned into a cross-the-ages botellón, but it got so out of hand that the government was forced to strictly prohibit drinking in the streets all together on this special day.)

Why an apple with scissors in it? Well one of my good friends explained that it is to ward off bad luck. Since at any holiday where there are a multitude of displays competing for prizes, one will always want to sigh out the phrase "It's pretty, but...". This is considered bad luck, so to fix it the Granadinos use the Pero apple to signify the "pero (but)" in the phrase and cut it out, hence the scissors.

A little later (after some homework) I will post pictures with some explanations!